We hiked partway up Mt. Whitney last year, and ever since we’ve talked about our chances of doing the entire 22-mile route in one day.
We were unsuccessful in getting overnight permits in the annual lottery, so we drove down early to the Lone Pine ranger station and got a couple of unclaimed day permits.
We camped along the Whitney Portal Road at the Lone Pine Campground, mostly to avoid the bear problems that frequent the trailhead campground higher up.
The temperature was unseasonably warm in the 90s, but our campsite had a cold stream running behind it where it was nice and cool.
Our plan was to get up at 3:00 and be on the trail by 4:00. Who’s idea was this?
We woke up to relatively warm conditions. We gobbled down some instant oatmeal, jumped in the truck and drove up to the trailhead.
0400 is a popular starting time; all around us were other hikers moving through the darkness. You could hear the clanking of equipment and low voices as people were gearing up in the campground. There were headlamps visible on the trail high above us of others who had started an hour earlier.
We hiked for two hours straight, from the trailhead at 8,300’ to about 10,500’ just below Mirror Lake.
We took a short break to eat some trail mix and watch the sunrise, and then push on to Trail Camp.
Once you get above Mirror Lake you leave the trees behind.
Nancy was charging up the trail, hiking like an angry goddess with fearsome calves and lungs of Olympus.
Our goal was to travel as light as possible. We only carried a quart of water, an extra layer and a bunch of power bars. I brought my water filter, taking advantage of the last source of water at 12,000’ at Trail Camp.
After resting at Trail Camp, you start up the notorious 97 switchbacks to Trail Crest (yes, there are 97—I counted them).
We didn’t find the hike up the switchbacks that tough; counting each one gives you a sense of progress.
We played “musical trails” with other hikers on the way up, repeatedly passing each other as we rested or took pictues.
As you get near the crest, you’re rewarded with spectacular views of the trail and valley below you.
After one last, long switchback, you reach the Pacific crest, and then hike down about 200 vertical feet to meet the John Muir Trail.
At this point you begin the hard part of the hike, a two and a half-mile traverse along the crest on a very rocky trail.
Nancy didn’t suffer any effects of altitude sickness, but my head started pounding anytime I tried to push the pace.
We lucked into a great day of weather for hiking, with very little wind and cool temps.
Nancy thought she would never climb Mt. Whitney in her life, and was so amazed to make it to the summit that she actually shed a few tears.
This year is the 100th anniversary of the Smithsonian Institution Shelter at the summit. When we got our permits in Lone Pine, they gave us a couple of granola bars to commemorate the event.
We used this special occasion for another special occasion, exchanging rings and deciding on a date to get married.
We spent less than an hour on the summit, since we wanted to get down before dark.
For me, the hike down seemed a lot longer going down than coming up.
Even the switchbacks seemed to go on forever. At times I began to wonder if we were still on the right trail.
The hike down was harder than we expected on our old bones, took longer than we expected, and we had to put our headlamps on and hike for about an hour in the dark.
I think I was too tired to feel much of anything when we finally reached the bottom. Final tally: 22 miles of hiking and over 6,500 feet of vertical gained.